Hatz Enfield build

[Sphere]

Hi Phil, actually I think the shaking isn't bad at all, but I can't say for sure until I try it on some secondary road at elevated speeds. I haven't ridden many other bikes to compare it to I only got my license this May haha

I plan to swap out most bolts for stainless steel with nylock nuts and use loctite to try and keep everything on the bike. Don't worry I will keep on writing, even though it's road legal there's still lots to fix, not just cosmetic stuff.

- engine idle and top end (2200-4400 rpm currently )
- handlebars can still rotate even though I tightened up the nuts
- add more fuses so a short doesn't take out my entire circuitry
- front brake cable (lots of stretch in it)
- make primary case/gearbox/engine oil tight

Ah well, all in good time It seems that the guys at the Dutch Road Authority changed my registration already

[Sphere]

Alrighty then. It's been too long. Today I had some time to work on the bike again. There's some issues with the throttle, but nothing that can't be fixed. The engine mod has been undone (RIP) and it is now stock, except for the part where it will happily rev at 4400 rpm. So the solution needs to include a max rpm stop.

It was time to upgrade the bearings in the gearbox. The stock bearings made faint grinding noises, probably due to metal grit. The replacements are closed bearings. Anyway, pics!

Patient on the table. Gutted...

Gear operator and an oil seal hiding inside, attempting to look innocent. The smell emanating from your monitor is indeed elephant sh*t.

One bearing in, the other waiting in its box for the "skilled" mechanic to fit it in place of its Indian cousin.

Much to my surprise, my 1992 Bullet was already fitted with an improved main shaft sleeve.

Reassembly tomorrow.

[Sphere]

Well, apart from electrics it's done I took the bike home (350km + pitstop). The bike does 75-95 on the speedo depending on conditions. I think that I can keep up with trucks (88-90kph) if the speedo reads 95. It revs noticeably faster in 3rd gear, so I hope it will become a bit better after running in. The engine was sold to me as NOS, and when it was opened up it looked very new.

It was an uneventful ride (although wet), except for a toolbox that fell off (you can pick it up here) and an indicator that came loose. Charging system is still WIP as the Hatz alternator seems to blow up every regulator you throw at it.

Unfortunately the clutch is now shot again, either somewhere the innards are shot, or perhaps the cable is no longer properly supported at the gearbox end? Changing gear is now a matter of correct speed and revs I hope to fix it soon, but since I have to do it outside I may have to wait for the weather to be a bit nicer. Oh, and the handlebars can rotate when kickstarting. Ah well, perhaps adding a few layers of metal tape will do the trick.

[Curtis in Texas]

A trick I learned long ago for wandering handle bars.
Drill and thread for a set screw in the bottom side clamp.
Then either turn your set screw from the underside to lock the bars in place, or back it out enough from the top so it interferes the bars a little. Just a little bump in the clamping area.
Not to much or you may crack the cap when you tighten down them down. It doesn't take much to hold them in place this way.

If you're using aliminum bars this works wonders, and the aluminum bars will cut down on the vibration trasnmitted to your hands.

Thousands of KLR Riders will attest to that!

CurtisDrew

[Sphere]

The hand is mightier than the clutch rod!

[Stuart]

Oh dear I needed a new piece of clutch rod on the Ruggerfield (on fitting the new clutch) and luckily found a Pozi drive screwdriver of the right dia. Obviously it was hardened metal and has lasted well. Bit tricky sticking the ball bearing in the end with that hi-temp grease though

[Sphere]

Yeah shifting gear has become a bit tricky I think I will just try to get some 6mm rod trim it and heat the tips with propane and douse it with water. Hope that works out.

[boutje]

Tip:

Take a piece of silver steel rod.
Is very easy to machine.
And you can also harden it with a flame and cooling down in oil.
Next you heat it up again and let it cooling down slowly.

The outside is very hard (around 60 HRC)
The inside is still a bit flexible , so the rod will not break.

[Sphere]

Thanks, Nanko already made sure I wouldn't obtain crap I'll give Kokkelink a ring tomorrow to see if they have any. I know I should douse it in oil, but I don't have any left on shelf, next oil change of my car I'll see about keeping it

[boutje]

Water is also ok.

Silver steel is not a exotic material , so getting it will not be problem.
Good luck with the fix.

[Sphere]

Welp. I trimmed a piece silver steel to size, then used a file to take of material until the rod fitted. Apparently the rod should portrude 5-7mm, so I started with 10 and kept checking. Once I was satisfied I used the mother of all oven gloves to heat it to bright red on the stove and doused in oil I put in an empty Red Bull can. This is roughly 225ml of oil and in my opinion not enough, especially since you need to cool it twice.

Also, I should inform you that the WAF of this activity is subzero. You will notice noise indicating dismay from the living room. Currently my newly tempered treasure is in the oven at 250 Celsius for an hour because that's what the internet says I should do. We'll see

[Dan J]

Ah, the good old WAF! I got an almighty bollocking several months back when my wife - who thought I was being sweet and loving by making the effort to cook her something special for tea - opened the oven door to find my rear sprocket nicely simmering at 220C. No amount of explaining it was new and not covered in oil helped and I decided not to bother telling her the brake drum hub it was to be fitted to was in the freezer...

[Anorak_ian]

Lol

[balboa_71]

Sphere,
I owned a '98 or so Bullet 500 and didn't have a lick of trouble out of the clutch or gear box. Clutch disengaged well and life was good. Why does your Enfield give you hell with the clutch pushrod? Dumb question, but are you pushing too much spring? My brother in law has a Bultaco 250 road racer and the clutch on it is a total bitch to disengage....I'm wondering if some clutches are just difficult to set up right???

Cris

[Anorak_ian]

I don't think that every Enfield part comes from the Enfield factory, I'm sure a fair deal is farmed out to smaller companies, and this is the difference in quality.
Diesel main shafts are made by at least two different companies and that is why we have two different lengths of shaft, apparently they just didn't get the size right. Which is good for me.

The Enfield gearbox outer cover flexes about 3 millimetres which is why the clutches can be a bitch to set up right, and which is why (I and others) have fitted a bolt through the middle of the outer cover to keep it rigid; this really helps with clutch adjustment.
Of course you don't have to use Enfield rods, mine are a cut up 1960's Greaves, bearing, Greaves, bearing and a Neb mushroom.

[Sphere]

I had a small rattling problem with the Enfield that required removing the flywheel. After I found some loose metal causing mishap I also noticed the stator was stuk between a rotor and a hard place

Some surgery was required... sorry for the crappy pic.

The finished product, measuring ~1Ohm on the leads. Hope it works!

Just top it off with some goo of Het Gele Merk (it's like Sicaflex)

And finally a regulator from Hatz. According to the paper that comes with it they also make a DUCATI version. I suppose that is intended for turbodiesel 1B40s

[Dougy]

I love the side on pic mate, and congrats on getting through all the red tape and registed did the electrics fix turn out ok ?

[Sphere]

Actually no, for some reason my weekends have been taken over by offspring and related activities. I was gonna take the bike to work today as the days are growing longer again, but my clutch lever lost a bolt on my last trip sunday and the cable is half way broken

I guess I will leave it in its tent until I can fix it.

[Dougy]

Homer would say it best......'DOH' !

[Sphere]

More fun. Went to take the bike for a spin, but when I engaged the throttle after starting the engine died. Now it won't start anymore. Checked valve clearance yesterday, which seemed adequate (a bit loose if anything), but that did not help matters. Nice puffs of diesel leave the exhaust when I kick it over, and compression seems fierce as ever. Trying to get it going in 4th only resulted in a panting owner.

So I guess I should start with attaching the pullcord again, so I can exclude it is the slipping of the clutch and work my way up from there. Sure hope it's not the autodecompression.

[coachgeo]

Seems to allways be something stupid! Fuel cock shut off? Big air leak?, Plugged fuel line???

[old clunker]

Yes, hopefully it's something simple that is wrong, and not too expensive!!

[Sphere]

Very pleasant past months. Attended the Dutch Enfield rally, roughly 2.5l/100km after turning up the fuel pump screw for bigger top end which now seems to be 80-90kmph and 75 under more unforgiving circumstances.

Just stopped at a traffic light close to home and noticed my left foot was slipping off the peg. I feared a primary case leak, but unfortunately there is diesel ALL OVER EVERYTHING. I have taken some pictures, I will upload them shortly, but there is a nice puddle on the rim of the back wheel as well. Blargh. Very bad timing.

[rednorfolk]

so!!!!.gearbox.bar clamps.cables. gearbox push rod.mmmmmm yep .thats my trip to the bigknock 2012.all fixed at the campsite at the bat and ball. thanks dave,i love you.

[alexanderfoti]

Oh dear, that could have been dangerous! Where is the leak from, its hard to tell from the pictures.

[Sphere]

I haven't had time to take a peek yet, hopefully this weekend. Preferably a stretch of fuel line, but that would not be in accordance with my luck.

[alexanderfoti]

Hopefully its nothing major, doesn't look it.

Healthy dose of brake cleaner will sort that out

[Sphere]

Welp. No brake cleaner was necessary, it squirts right out really. Unfortunately it is in a piece of Hatz hose and not in a piece of hose I put it. It has an annoying little clamp at the bottom, so I can't replace it atm. I do have some ABA clamps, but they are twice as high (see one in the pic for reference). I suppose I mounted it all under too much strain and in the end it ruptured.

[old clunker]

That's bad luck with the hose, hopefully you can get it fixed soon with a better hose and reusable clip.