Final Bench-Test Run, Oily Innards and Carbon Credits

[smokyjoe]

An interesting observation tonight.......... or maybe it isn't interesting at all. I was firing up the old Hatz E79 prior to hacking it into the Suzuki frame and I had to remove the muffler to check out the cleanliness of the PCV valve. Being the lazy lug that I occasionally am, I left the muffler off to test run it to check out the valve lash and PCV operation. For some unknown reason I decided to get a flashlight to look into the exhaust port with it running and lo and behold there was a LOT of oil on the exhaust valve stem (could see it slobbering around as the valve did it's thing) with some drops occasionally blowing out the port on to my flashlight lens. With all the no-load test running I've done in the process of fiddlin' with this thing, this engine doesn't seem to blow much smoke (except when opening the throttle quickly) and there wasn't any blue haze as I got with my old VW Diesel when it had bad rings. (Well, at least my exhaust valve stem is getting lubricated). In all the hours that I've run this engine it hasn't seemed to use any oil. Oh well, with the high cost of Hatz parts this engine is staying as-is except for maybe valve seals, if it decides to head west I'll part it out on eBay and throw in a Yanclone, unless I can find a source of "cheap" surplus Hatz parts.

Surprisingly, exhaust noise seemed the same with or WITHOUT a muffler!

The MOST interesting observation was concerning carbon dioxide emissions. The mosquito population in this part of the country has been thriving with all the rain we've had this summer to a record level. Even though the temperatures have been near record low, the mosquitoes have been NASTY! As I was working outside the little buggers were there, but few. Then soon after I popped a brew, they started coming around (sensing the carbon dioxide emitted by the bubbly). All heck broke loose when the ol' Hatz started chugging to life. I was being eaten alive by the blood-suckers to the point that I hurriedly stuck the muffler back on, threw a tarp over the mess and escaped reluctantly to the safety of the house to finish my beer.

Mosquitoes, being attracted to carbon dioxide, may be erringly maligned as being a useless disease-carrying pest. Maybe Al Gore should tap into this natural champion of the environment and publicize the great deed these little creatures do to force us to lower our carbon emissions. You see, the more carbon dioxide you emit, the more blood gets sucked out of you and the more uncomfortable you are made to feel. Forget carbon credits and all that other nonsense. Just let the mosquitoes thrive and do their thing. Or on second thought, where did I put the bug spray?

[Diesel Dave]

It should be possible to have a new exhaust valve guide turned up locally by someone with a lathe.

The tricky bit was always reaming the hole to an exact size but it's prob. a true metric std. reamer size.

Dave

[andrewaust]

Looks like that valve stem needs a little attention hey! Many a time I've seen oily residue on heavy vehicle manifolds suggesting the same valve stem leakage, if turbo charged maybe something else . Of course most of use single banging diesel dudes don't have those spiny things "hair dryers .... lol" to contend with.

Pmsl = Al Gore !!! I've suggested to some it's not the huge volume of CO2 this guy emits, but the B.S emitted ............ loll, now that can't be good for the environment

Know what you mean regarding them little blood sucking buggers, holy crap do we get invaded in the summer too. Aeroguard is the only answer sometimes, the only other option is as you suggest = retreat/surrender indoors.


A

[pietenpol2002]

Looks like Continental Engines has the valve guides for your Hatz at $21.73 a piece. Unless your closest Hatz distributor there in Burlington, NJ can do it cheaper.

http://www.continentalengines.com/cecat ... p?ID=45594

I too thought that any good engine shop would be able to drop new guides in from metric stock. However, the parts manual shows a collar at the top end that might be difficult to replicate. See pages 26 and 27 in the manual, not the page numbers in the PDF.

http://www.hatz-diesel.de/fileadmin/use ... 1_SCAN.pdf

Ron

[smokyjoe]

Hi Dave Andrewaust and Ron,

I've got a fairly well-equipped little machine and sheetmetal shop in my garage, most of the stuff I bought when the shop I was working in moved to Mexico 19 years ago. We did design and prototyping of automotive electronics for General Motors in a little place with 8 employees about a mile from my house. It was then a perfect setup. I had the total run of the shop, and if I didn't have any "real" work to do the boss didn't mind (and even took an interest in) my many side projects. If anybody asked, I'd tell them I was working on a "government job"! Well, to make a long story short, when the work was moving South I bought the entire machine shop and about 1/2 of the electronic equipment all for pennies on the dollar and started my own little business. Also, more importantly I couldn't live without having those machines at my disposal for my projects! Business was good until about a year ago, now I am contemplating again joining the lunchbox crowd after 18 years of self-employment.

I was thinking before of making my own parts for the Hatz if I needed them, and an exhaust valve guide sounds like a good place to start! (Maybe I've watched "The World's Fastest Indian" too many times) I'm not sure what material to use, years ago we used to use Naval Bronze or Phosphor Bronze valve guides in racing engines but these were not built for longevity. Perhaps a mild steel like 1020 would be best. Plus I could turn the top (rocker arm side) diameter to fit any diameter seal I can find to fit the valve stem. But at $27 that doesn't sound like a bad price if the top is complicated. I have the original factory manual and parts list, I'll check that out. Thanks.

I plan on getting the bike finished this summer and then tear it apart over the winter and finish it off and hopefully make it look good. I'll possibly tear down the engine and fix the (hopefully few) ills it has. The only other things I can find are a leaking crankshaft seal and a little excessive crank end play, both easily corrected from the flywheel side. I'd also like to add a glow plug (has a tapped hole in head for this) although I only had trouble starting it when it was below freezing so far.

As for Al Gore, I can't imagine why anyone would believe a supposed "environmentalist" who lives in an energy-hogging mansion, flies to speaking engagements in a private jet, rides in gas-guzzling limousines, and then tells us to be "green". The only "green" that guy has is in his wallet! According to a limo driver who drove him to a speaking engagement he rides in style until he got a mile from the place then gets out and drives a Prius Hybrid to the show!

Happy building and have a safe ride,

Brad

[Diesel Dave]

Phosphor bronze is good and long lasting, failing that get some cast iron.

Don't use 1020 or any other steel!

Cheers
Dave

[Anorak_ian]

I agree with Dave, phosphor bronze is self lubricating being an oily metal.
I don't believe you can use oil seals on top of steel guides as it will need to be lubricated.

[smokyjoe]

I have phosphor bronze stock under the workbench, and can get cast iron by mail order pretty easily so I guess either one's maybe a good bet. Plus these are both my favorite metals to turn on the lathe they cut so smoothly. I'll have plenty of time to test drive it before riding to Florida, so I'll have time to make a new one if need be, or just give up and order a factory guide.

I can't see a stem seal in the parts list, so taking in mind what you said about oil for lubrication:o maybe there isn't a seal, and with very low vacuum on the intake side maybe not one there either. I'd rather it use a LITTLE oil than not have enough valve lube! I've never had ANY vehicle that after a few hundred thousand miles didn't use a bit of oil. That Hatz I'm sure had the equivalent of a hundred thousand miles on it in hours, plus it came out of a vibratory roller that probably shook the devil out of it (one of those double roller walk-behind thingys that rattles all the dishes in the neighborhood and numbs the whole body of the user).

My memory of the old motorcycle days of my misspent youth is getting dim, but I don't remember any of the old Triumphs, Indians or Harleys that I worked on that had rubber valve seals now that I think of it. I know Indian and Harley used cast iron, and I think the Triumph engines had at least one bronze guide, but can't remember which one, intake or exhaust.

Thanks for all your help and insight.

[balboa_71]

We purchase a bronze product we use for building form rails and draw dies for forming stainless steel in our metal stamping plant. If you'd like a sample, please PM me and I'll get you what you need, with in reason, and at no cost. This stuff is too expensive to buy in small quantities. We use enough of it to have pieces laying around that can be turned, drilled and reamed to become valve guides.

later,
Cris

[smokyjoe]

Hi Cris- PM sent.

Figured out the reason for another problem.... I noticed that after running the engine for a LONG time it would smoke quite a bit, not normal exhaust smoke, but BILLOWING grey smoke that would go away after further running. When I went to put the muffler back on I noticed there was a good quantity of oil settled in the bottom of the muffler from the leaking stem. When the muffler got hot it would start smoking until it burned off. When I ran it for only 10 minutes or so the muffler wouldn't get that hot and the oil would just accumulate in the bottom of the muffler (I wondered why there was a drain plug on the bottom of the muffler, or maybe it is just an unused mounting bolt!). I ran it for a while without the muffler and no smoke except for when I accelerated the engine. Without the muffler the oil was blown out the exhaust port as small drops.

Don't worry, I put the muffler back up to the exhaust port to "keep the heat in" when I shut it down so I wouldn't warp the valve stem

Thanks,
Brad