Now old Sluggy the diesel Enfield lives outdoors and uncovered all year round, previous winters have seen much use of WD40 as a starting aid to get the fuel to ignite on the coldest mornings. this year has seen some changes to this as:
1) I changed the motor from a Greaves 360cc to a Lombardini 400cc
2) My new head steady prevents the decompressor from being used.
3) I can't be bothered using WD40.
So this winter, engine starts have been required without the aid of either WD40 or a decompressor but like most challenges in this world - can be overcome.
For those of you who have difficulty in kick starting your diesel bikes there is a technique you can use that will make things easier - as a picture is worth a thousand words then a video must be worth millions:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_U-JltnGig
The technique is to get the piston bouncing off compression and you build up momentum each time untill the final thrust to send it over the top. It frees up the piston and gets things moving and you can get the injector to 'gronk' a little extra fuel into the cylinder on each 'bounce' before going for a start.
Sadly those with Hatz motors will be unable to do this as they have auto-decompressors.
With slush and ice all over the place I've found the little Enfield to be the most stable bike I've ridden, it's trials origins shine through but some of the credit must go to the block treaded Mitas tyres which have not faltered.
Of course every bit of chrome has now developed surface rust and that includes the headlamp bowl, every painted surface is showing similar signs of distress. The chain is almost dragging along the floor despite having an on-board oiling system and the alloy casings are crusty white and pitted.
I've reserved some time this Saturday to fettle the old boy back into health and most of this will be cleaning off the accumulated crap and salt, taking the slack out of the chains and topping off the various oil levels - for those of you running Enfields I have a few recomendations:
1) The cush drive clutch really takes the snatch out of low rev's running - especially good when plonking along on a slippery surface - be aware this is just a 3 plate jobbie and mine needed genuine surflex plates (8 quid each) to prevent slipping.
2) Gearbox lube - the factory fill the gearbox with Veedol grease and this is too thick for effective lubrication in the UK winter temperatures. The factory also recomends topping up with engine oil and so over time the mixture becomes thinner and thinner and leaks out faster and faster. Keep a close eye on the level especially if you park on the sidestand after a long ride as the lube will be quite liquid and tends to leak out of the mainshaft. Hitchcocks recomend a replacement grease to the factory elephant poo but it's the devils own job to get it through the filler hole - I've taken to using an old bathroom silicone tube and gun to push it in.
3) Keep the cables lubricated - even if they are the type with teflon liners, I did have water ingress into the clutch cable which froze overnight.
4) Change the fork oil at the end of winter, it's an easy job and keeps the oil clean preventing wear of the fork legs as there are no replaceable bushes on the Indian versions.
I also think I've finally cracked the winter clothing problem and have remained almost completely dry and warm througout. Motorway repair jacket from Romford market, 25 quid and fully waterproof, Lidl overtrousers with armour and thermal lining - 18 quid. German para boots from a bike show last year 25 quid. The weak spot so far is gloves, my claw type 2 finger jobbies are waterproof and warm but bulky and not easy to use the bike controls with.
So here's looking forwards to spring when it stays light after the working day, you don't need 3 jumpers under your jacket and the bike won't look like it's been in the Titanic cargo hold when you get home.
Cheers
Dave
, gee I might have to think about keeping some spare too! The gearbox in my ole girl has been cleaned and filled with some really nice thick gooey gear oil, I just hope it don't stuff the brass/bronze bushes. I've kept check of the oil color etc, and seems OK.
Enfield control cables are a long way off being coated yet, they do have a nylon liner and it's so rewarding to see rusty watery oil exiting the bottom after lubricating.
