BMW clutch

[johnfireball]

Hi all,
I've stripped down my Dnepr today in readyness for fitting a diahatsu turbo engine. The dnepr clutch is a twin plate version but might prove difficult to fit due to the recesses in the flywheel needed to house the springs. I have purchased the engine but await delivery so I cannot be sure until I've seen it. Hope to collect it next week. I've been advised to use the complete clutch from a BMW r69s which I believe simplifies matters as it uses a diaphragm type spring and the gearbox splines fit. Does anyone know where I might get a complete clutch at a reasonable cost? I looked up sites in the US and they were quoting approx$100 for each part adding up to a very hefty sum. Failing this I will fit the dnepr clutch. Thinking about alligning the gearbox my current thought is to bond the clutch plate to the pressure plate after centering on a spinning jig, maybe use two pop rivits and then weld up the bellhousing with the engine turned vertical ie gearbox upwards. Any advice appreciated. I will post pictures as soon as I get started.
John.

[oilburner]

Here's a picture showing how I aligned the BMW gearbox on my industrial Daihatsu D950. I purchased a stub shaft which bolts to the flywheel (you can easily make one and use a dial indicator to center it on the flywheel). I cut a hole in the bellhousing a wee bit smaller than the size of the alignment lip on the gearbox (same as a Dnepr). I had a machine shop make a bushing which is a push fit onto the stub shaft and also push fit into the bearing/seal hole of an empty gearbox case.

The gearbox case is offered up to the bellhousing hole, and the bushing is pushed over the protruding stub shaft and attempted to push into the bearing/seal hole of the gearbox case. Of course it won't fit the first time. I noted where interference was on the bush and *carefully* filed the hole in the bellhousing to allow the gearbox case to move ever so slightly thus relieving the interference. This procedure was repeated until the bushing push fit (do not force!). Also, don't file too much and end up with a loose fitting gearbox. If you do, you'll have to add dabs of weld in the appropriate places to tighten it up.

Yes - this is a very tedious and time consuming procedure, but it worked for me and the gearbox is perfectly aligned with the crankshaft.

Misalignment can cause premature failure of the gearbox input splined and/or clutch splines.

I suspect others have come up with simpler and cheaper solutions. I use what I feel comfortable with.

[johnfireball]

Hi all & oilburner,
I now have my engine(laid up for 8 years) and have stripped it ready to fit the clutch be it Dnepr or Bmw, either looks easy enough to fit. The motor has a recently reconditioned crank & pistons but was leaking oil from one camshaft seal & both crank seals, otherwise it's in great condition ,so a gasket & seal kit is being ordered. I will allign the gearbox as I described as I don't wish to strip the gearbox, and then drill the bellhousing and gearbox in situ in 2 places and fit 2, 8mm roll pins to ensure allignment on reassembly & subsequent reassembly. I have found a form making business with a laser cutter who will cut the bellhousing plates and any other I require for me in anything up to 10mm steel plate, I supply dimentioned drawing.I will keep these if anyone wants to use them later, I will do as sumo and make up mdf copies and join them and check for fit before proceeding. I have yet to figure out the electric start as it fits from the gearbox side but I'll work this out with the mdf model. Going on 2 week holiday with the family on sunday so will have to wait to get really stuck in.
Regards John

[andrewaust]

Hi John


Thank you for keeping us informed buddy, leaking seals can be a real pain.

Have a great holiday with the family and catch you when you get back.



Cheers


Andrew