A few pictures of the Ruggerfields underside and more

Post by **Stuart** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 2:41 pm

Slow Sunday here so I thought I'd post up a few technically inclined pictures of the Ruggerfield.

From the underside you can see the brake arm going into the primary housing and the chain coming out.

Here's a better shot of the chain entering and exiting the gearbox support made for this conversion.

From the top side, a shot of the ally section btw gearbox and engine.

Here's a shot of the downtube after I'd cleaned it up and chemically blackened the fixing nuts.

A shot of the head steady which appears to have been machined from a solid block of ally. There's a copper plate behind which maybe there to act as some kind of heatsink?

The oil cooler arrangment.

andrewaust · Post by **andrewaust** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 8:26 am

Looks like a lot of thought went into it mate! So how does it compare with old sluggy - the single lunger?

Would be interesting to swing a leg over one for a test drive

= what you can do with just 5 extra HP.

Post by **Stuart** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 7:12 pm

I've yet to take it for a real blast but I just got the Log book through so I can now take it for a road worthiness test (MOT). The insurance ppl are delaying me at the moment. May have to switch to the company the previous owner used (Footman James). Currently with Carol Nash. I'll see how it goes

This bike thunders away from a start but cruises with a great gurgling sound like a custom car with no exhaust. Sweet as a nut

oldbmw · Post by **oldbmw** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 10:41 pm

I look forward to seeing it at Hamm this September. I assume you will be riding it there ?

sbrumby · Post by **sbrumby** » Sat Mar 29, 2008 12:17 am

With the insurance as regard to a previous post I wanted people to put down who they were with and what they were paying but people seemed to be reluctant to do that. Anyway with footman james you get a fair reduction if you are a member of the VJMC. Now I dont know if you have to have a jap bike as all mine are, but you dont need a bike to be a member of the VJMC.

Post by **Stuart** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:24 pm

I can now report that the Ruggerfield went through its MOT (road worthyness test) with flying colours

Took the bike for a nice long spin after and the only problems were a bit of clutch slip and vibration on the wing mirror.

The clutch seems pretty soft to pull on the lever and I'm wondering whether the clutch needs tightening up some. The slip is quite evident when you crank on the power suddenly or not so suddenly really.
Anyone got any ideas how long 'glazed plates' may take to return to normal?

I also think this bike has standard Bullet 500 gearing and so may need to alter one of the cogs to get something better than 55mph. The bike is certainly capable of pulling to 70mph I reckon.
The rear sprocket is a 38 tooth job. I'm about to look on Hitchcocks for a 36.

Sphere · Post by **Sphere** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 8:33 pm

What is the reason behind lowering the rear tooth count? This will also negatively affect topspeed?

Post by **Stuart** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 8:38 pm

To increase the top speed a little I can either add a tooth to the front or drop a couple from the back. Either way it will do the same thing.
Far easier to do the rear wheel. Not sure if you can get a 36 though, after much googling I didn't see any

Pretty hard to see how many teeth are on my engine sprocket tho.. I'll try tomorrow.

Sphere · Post by **Sphere** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 8:54 pm

What am I missing here

If a cyclist wants to gain a higher topspeed he switches to a big sprocket in the front and a small one on the wheel. But now you are planning on downsizing the wheel one?

andrewaust · Post by **andrewaust** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 3:17 am

Can you get different rear sprockets for the wheel hub on an Enfield ? Would be great if you can "Haven't seen anyone selling any here".

I think you can go up to a 20 tooth front sprocket Stuart, just depends on the cutouts on your bike, you might need to do some hole expanding.

Usually one tooth on the front sprocket is the same as jumping 3 on the rear.

Would be good to play with single tooth increments on the rear, Diesels with there limited power may not like an increase on the front = to tall in gearing.

The single 10hp Diesels seem to like the standard bullet gearing.

Cheers

Post by **Stuart** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:25 am

Cheers mate

I always thought an extra tooth on the front was worth 3 on the back but the guy who MOT'd the bike said when you think about it, it's nearer worth 2 on the back.

Yeah, may make the gearing too tall to pull

Yes, might have to do some filing to enlarge the cut outs if I can fit something larger

Brings back memories of that days we did Enduro riding and were forever swopping sprockets on the front. Usually we made them smaller to aid hill climbing. So much easier to do on those Jap bikes. Just 2 bolts usually

andrewaust · Post by **andrewaust** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 1:50 pm

I know what you're saying, changing the front sprocket on an Enfield is a damn 2 hour job. Probably could do it quicker, but I'm a fussy bugger!

The MOT chap may be right in regard to the Enfields and other road bikes with front and rear sprockets which are closer in diameter!

I'm use to having dirt bikes with 13/58 ratios. The bullet having a 17/38 standard is closer in diameter.

Yeah! changing a sprocket on a Jap bike is a piece of cake, thank goodness the Enfield sprockets seem to last a long time if maintained well

Cheers mate

sbrumby · Post by **sbrumby** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 8:26 pm

Unless the clutch slip is limiting the MPH, my calculations mean you need to go 20front and 36back to get 68.29MPH

Post by **Stuart** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:38 pm

Cheers Sam

I know they do 17,18 & 19 tooth engine sprockets for the Enfields so now all I've gotta do is see what I have on it and up it one and see if it can pull it

The clutch is real soft at the lever and reckon the springs need winding down a touch. Still, I'll ride it some more before I take it apart