Honda Rebel Kubota

[UAofE]

New project!

2006 Honda Rebel, 10k miles. Terrible paint job but that will go away later on.



So far, the chassis has been stripped.




A Kubota OC95 is what I shall be using. Its pictured here with a KKK KP35 but its much too big for this engine so I will use a VZ21 with an intercooler.




I was able to track down a recoil start kit so I plan to delete the starter. That will cut 4lbs but it will also make fitting into the chassis much easier.
A small Lithium battery will be used for the glowplug and charge equalizing.

http://www.ballisticparts.com/product_i ... cts_id=424


One great thing about the Rebel is its simple harness, but I can clean it up even further.




As hinted by the wiring diagram, I plan to eventually add water/methanol injection using an air pressurized refillable aerosol can.



My only roadblock right now for that is finding a 5-15cc/min atomizing nozzle that works at 50-120psi. The best I can find is for 2000+psi pressure washers and misters.

[Tetronator]

Looks like a nice build UAofE.

I take it your going to use a CVT as I think I see the parts for it on your lift.

Eitherway, goodluck!

[UAofE]

Yes, Comet 40C and 44D. The 7-5/8 or 8-3/16 center distance will make it decently compact to minimize frame alteration.

[pietenpol2002]

Any room to tuck a plenum/accumulator in there for the turbo?

[UAofE]

It will have a (relatively) big intercooler.

[UAofE]

Got the recoil and governor parts ordered. A Kubota rep kept assuring me there is no recoil start option for the OC95, despite me showing him several different pictures of them with it. One of the pictures was of an air compressor company in California and they were happy to offer me the recoil kit for $250. I eventually found the part number and a local parts dealer was able to print a parts diagram, order the entire kit for $123 and order my missing governor parts for another $50.

I changed the wiring plan slightly. I've accepted that water injection is not going to happen, atomizing 10-15cc/min at 120psi is just too much (little) to ask for with commonly available machining technology.
In it's place I have deleted the keyswitch and repurposed the ignition kill switch as the primary power switch. I think it should handle it, there will be a maximum 8 amps passing through. With a recoil start the keyswitch no longer serves any kind of safety or anti-theft function. For security, the bike has a steering lock and I will use a rear wheel lock for long duration storage.
Also added is a hazard switch, mounted in place of the keyswitch. Its a simple SPST that bridges the two circuits.
For the rear I added a Hopkins 48895 converter so I can have the turn lights also function as brake lights.




Tonight I finished a fair bit of the electrical. I still need to mount the battery, horns and headlight.




The engine doesn't come with an oil filter so I added one. The filter base is under the seat area and will use a NAPA 1085 or Kubota HH1C0-32430 oil filter.
The head of this engine is oil cooled. Flow will be Head-Filter-Cooler-Sump. The oil cooler will be relocated to the bike airstream and the shroud port blocked. As a side benefit, the blocked port will divert more airflow over the cylinder/block for better cooling.

[UAofE]

Completed and tested the chassis electrical. All that remains electrically is to connect the alternator, glowplug, oil pressure switch and horns when they are installed.

Everything is LED and the 7" Truck-lite headlight looks huge on the little Rebel compared to the old 5-1/4" headlight.



Current flow
1.7a, headlight low beam and markers
3.9a, headlight high beam and markers
1.9a, headlight low beam and brake lights
2.2a, headlight low beam and turn signals
4.8a peak with high beam and 4-way flashing





I also did a 3 coat rattle can job with lacquer sealer on the fenders and tank to try and cover the terrible custom job of the previous owner.
It still looks terrible close up because of the orange peel, inlaid stars and chips, but it will be a decent 10 footer when everything is done. Next winter I will get them blasted and painted proper.




Now it's up to Tom to help me get the CVT going and modify the frame to mount the engine.

[BoxerOtto]

the 7 inch trucklite led works well.mine has lasted 5600km so far. gives good lite at night. just on the pricey side, but if it lasts then the value is there. if you don't mind me asking, how exactly are you posting your pictures to the site? i have lots of information and pictures i would like to share now after doing lots of testing and research.

[UAofE]

Use a free image hosting site like photobucket.

[pietenpol2002]

If not mistaken, using a hosting site like Photobucket risks losing the pics from this board if they are removed from the hosting site. Loading pics is easiest directly from your computer. When posting you'll see just below this text box an "upload" option. When you click on there you can browse the pics you have saved on your computer, select the pic and then click "add the file". Once you add the file you'll need to select the "place in line" button. Then use the "Preview" to see if things are working before posting. And you can simply repeat the process to add multiple pics in the same post. However, if the pic's too big you'll get a warning to that effect requiring you to resize it smaller.

I though there were instructions somewhere here on the board for posting pics, but can't seem to find them now. Perhaps someone else can direct us to the formal instructions.

[BoxerOtto]

i have used image shack before,but it doesn't come out like these pictures above in this thread. i will try the direct method thanks for that tip.

[BoxerOtto]

uploading attachment seems to work well and if you click on the picture it will get larger so thanks for the info i hope your kubota gets the performance your looking for.

[UAofE]

Uploading direct is more risky. Forum crash/closure, old thread pruning, size reduction/limits, etc etc etc. I got in a tussle at a mercedes forum a few years back and lost years worth of posts when one the mods threw a hissy fit.
At least with photobucket I can organize into folders and use them in multiple locations. Plus people can follow the picture to the account and browse through all the other stuff I have uploaded.

[coachgeo]

Uploading direct is more risky. Forum crash/closure, old thread pruning, size reduction/limits, etc etc etc. I got in a tussle at a mercedes forum a few years back and lost years worth of posts when one the mods threw a hissy fit.
At least with photobucket I can organize into folders and use them in multiple locations. Plus people can follow the picture to the account and browse through all the other stuff I have uploaded.

You sort of point out that there is nothing NOT risky. Your Mercedes board experience is in reference to a vehicle with hundreds if not a thousand boards with MB info. and the person whom you got into a pissing match with knew that. The loss of your information was at most a major loss to you, but in reality not much of a loss of valuable help to anyone else. Here though....... this board is one of a few.... making the info more valuable and that actually makes it more protected from the issue you faced earlier. The creator and mods know the value of material here is far higher than a pissing match with someone.

My vote is here is the best place for all pics to be stored for reasons pietenpol2002 stated. Pic hosting sites are far far more vulnerable to data loss. They don't give a shiat about our diesel bike crazyness; just profits.

Maybe the best is redundancy? Your Hard drive backups, also your favorite pis hosting site (with links in your post to them as "larger or lost images found at" ) AND uploading them here for the smaller foot print images (max size here is smaller than pic hosting sites)

[UAofE]

I am considering flipping the rear wheel so the chain is on the right side for easier jackshaft packaging.
I would have to cut a notch in the rear fender to clear the chain, the torque rod will be on top and the brake lever on the bottom. I will have to figure out a cable to get brake lever power over to the brake.

However, if I keep the chain where it is the only thing we would have to build and weld on the frame for is a bearing holder between the driven CVT and chain sprocket.

[UAofE]

I got Aaron's old Datsun pickup running and moved the bike to Boulder so Tom and I can better work on it. We lose the handy lift but gain easier access to his machinist equipment and 220v welder.
We were unable to locate a proper 520 15 tooth sprocket in a 3/4" or 1" shaft drive so we have ordered a #50 sprocket and will cut it to the correct thickness.




Still no luck in finding anyone to weld the broken fin.
Flywheel weight is 29lbs. I am considering having 3lbs machined off of it while I have it out. But condisering I haven't even heard the engine run yet and its easy enough to remove, I will probably lighten it at another date.


Behold the mighty 48watt alternator! Since the flywheel is off I will use the opportunity to upgrade to the 150watt version if I can get it from Kubota.

[coachgeo]

how about going to a machine shop about removing material to balance it out such as remove fin on opposite side cleanly, remove remaining of broke one cleanly..... the weld in balance material to re-balance. Or of course buy a used fly wheel that fits your engine. You may have discussed why you've not done that already..... I've not re-read the thread yet.

[Eddy Wane]

Looking at the alternator I can see why you want to fit a bigger one. There are a few spare bobbins I expected to see a bit more wire. If you cannot source the 150 watt version are you going to rewind the one you have?

[sideshow]

Hey! I was wondering what your LED main light is - been looking around and having trouble figuring out what to use - I've heard a lot of bad things about the current LED main lights out there.

[Blunt Eversmoke]

On the water injection thingy: If you cannot inject an amount low enough with what you have tried so far, maybe you could use a small carburetor or a bubbler ("water pipe"), use a really narrow hose to connect that to your air filter housing (will need own little air filter). Connect throttle body with hand throttle of bike, leave enough slack so throttle only opens when you demand full engine rpm. Easier to tune the amount of water you inject: Just jet the carb really, really lean.

Might want to replace methanol with ethanol, though - methanol might eat the carb, the hose and all plastic plumbing downstream from the air filter

[UAofE]

Finished the jackshaft basic design. I will weld them to the frame after the overall design is finalized.



After cutting the frame and dry fitting the engine, I found the clearance around the starter hump meant removing the starter would be of no benefit. So, the starter is back in the picture which means I will need a higher capacity battery and a key switch. Should be minimal changes to the harness I have already laid out.

[UAofE]

If you cannot source the 150 watt version are you going to rewind the one you have?

Probably not. I set up the electrical system with a 5amp limit in mind.

Hey! I was wondering what your LED main light is - been looking around and having trouble figuring out what to use - I've heard a lot of bad things about the current LED main lights out there.

Its a Truck-Lite 27270C. I chose it because its marketed to the heavy duty truck field and Truck-Lite is a well known quality brand. The only down side is the plastic lens.
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/st ... ctId=92025

[UAofE]

No pictures today.
Got a 50BS15 3/4" sprocket from Martin Sprocket & Gear, machined down to fit the 520 chain and fit the spacers to mount the driven clutch. Now we have a fixed CVT location and determined 9-3/16 as the spacing we can start proper fitting of the engine.

Nobody would touch the flywheel to weld it. I scored the root of the opposite fin, snapped it off and drilled out 8 grams to match the 43grams of the broken fin.

[UAofE]

Got the battery tray sorted and tacked in place. I chose an EarthX EXT12A lithium battery and it is mounted on the underside of the swing arm.
http://earthxmotorsports.com/shop/etx12a/

[UAofE]

Been a while since an update, slow progress. Was going to get the frame welded today but the guy flaked on the deal. The kid has amazing welding skills but is a completely unreliable person.
So I will most likely be buying a welder today and just doing it myself. Probably be good in the long run so I don't have to cart the bike off to get the accessory brackets, turbo and exhaust done later.

Ended up not having to bend any frame tubes. Tom had some left over tubes bent for their Enfield prototype and they happened to be exactly the angles I needed!

[UAofE]

Finally broke down and bought a welder to do it myself. We only have the flux core for the moment so its just tacked in place but Monday Tom will get an Argon cylinder and everything will be welded proper.

I know the mounts looks offset but I squared up everything, measured a dozen different ways, got the 9-3/16 belt spacing and centered the clutches.

[UAofE]

Big day last night, the frame is welded and the engine mounted.

Now that is completed things should move fairly quickly. I was unable to find the genuine Kubota 150watt stator so I am getting mine rewound this week. Thurs-saturday I should have the fuel system, throttle and electrical finished to the point its rideable! Then its just the turbo and intercooler to finish it!

[Tetronator]

Those are some massive blinkers you got there.

Looking good keep up the good work.

[UAofE]

Lots and lots done today. So much closer to riding it out of the shop.

Finished:
Fuel system
Fuel tank brackets
CVT
Foot pegs
Boost gauge




To get it rideable, I need to finish:
Throttle cable
Idle/shutdown screw
Battery
Voltage regulator
Stator

[alexanderfoti]

Looks excellent!