Neutral, Where are you!

[alexanderfoti]

Hi all

I have a villiers box on my diesel bike build, which is very similar to the enfield boxes.

I have an odd problem,in that when the gearbox is cold, changes are fine, and locating netural is no problem.

As the box heats up, ie long drive at 50 mph, the changes become much more "notchy" and finding neutral is impossible. It seems to need more pressure on the lever and then when you apply the pressure it moves through the box in chungs, IE 2nd through netural to first, back from first to neutral.

I end up doing this annoying rocking motion at traffic lights to avoid holding the clutch in the hole time!

Any ideas? Or is it a "feature" of the design? It is currently filled with SAE 130 oil.

[gilburton]

Well for a start your oil is too thick. I doubt you need this spec unless the gearbox is turning at very high speed as used in racing.This paragraph is taken from "tuning" Villiers engines.
"Gearbox lubrication is an important point, the internals are going to be working over-time to cope with the extra power being put through it. A good quality oil must be used in order to protect the pinions from excessive wear. The grade recommended by Villiers was SAE 30, but this specification needs to be upgraded to SAE 80 or 90 to cope with competition use. For real high power work this spec should be further raised, and an EP 130 used, or a racing oil such as Castrol R40, or a synthetic oil such as the 75W fully synthetic racing gearbox oil from Morris Lubricants".
Having said that my first instinct is the clutch not freeing off sufficiently when warm??

[alexanderfoti]

I only use EP130 becuase the box is as leaky as a seieve. Its mainly to keep the oil in the gearbox for at least some time. Odd thing is that if it was likely to be oil thickness rating causing it, it should be worse when cold, as the box warms up and the oil thins, the gear changes are easier but netural becomes an issue.

The clutch is defo free when warm, when I do eventually get it into netural I can look down and see the inside of the clutch sitting still with the lever in, so thats defo working.

[Tim]

Hi Alex

I bet big crates of beer that the issues is caused but clutch drag. It only need the slightest drag to make shifting difficult.
If you running on cork plate the do swell with heat and as a result tend to drag . To check it when it's hot adjust out any free play from the clutch and see if this eases the problem As this will seperate the cluch further apart

another sign is when stationary holding the clutch in and shifting between firat and second if center hub of the clutch judders or moves there is drag going on!

Cheers Tim

[alexanderfoti]

Hi Alex

I bet big crates of beer that the issues is caused but clutch drag. It only need the slightest drag to make shifting difficult.
If you running on cork plate the do swell with heat and as a result tend to drag . To check it when it's hot adjust out any free play from the clutch and see if this eases the problem As this will seperate the cluch further apart

another sign is when stationary holding the clutch in and shifting between firat and second if center hub of the clutch judders or moves there is drag going on!

Cheers Tim

Hi Tim!

Hope all is well, I was going to call you recently about the other thread I posted, I think you are both right. Of you look at my other thread, I think it's caused by the center piece rubbing against the back plate.

Have a look at that thread actually because I would be interested to hear what you think.

[pietenpol2002]

And if Tim's right, will those "big crates of beer" be an ale? An IPA?

[alexanderfoti]

Tim is right!

Have a look here for the new parts I fitted.

https://www.dieselbikeforum.com/view ... =23&t=2719


The clutch, however, is not fully releasing, and I cant figure that one out