Peugeot 106 Running gear Question

[Flatfour]

I have a 106 1.4D non turbo eninge and i've looked at the manual and am a little confused

Its a 1997 engine and i'm identifying the components of it, a friend of mine said i don't need or it hasn't the need for a ECU ?? but theres plenty of sensors plugs and wires coming from the injector ect. I'd thought the injectors are gear driven and operate this way and the only issue i'd have would be making a switch to the glow plugs on start up.

Basicly what i'm asking is there a simple wiring diagram out there as i'm not versed with peugeot engines, was thinking of mating the wiring to a simple Honda motorcycle loom ?

[Stuart]

I'm running a 93/94 1.4 diesel TUD3 engine (in my car). It's not electronic though. The later engines were 1.5 turbo. I have used various parts from the later engines because they were not made correctly for the 1.4 version.
The engine I have is not electronic. It has no wires from the injector.
Got any pictures?

[Flatfour]

I'll do some later .......think your right though ..

then its just a matter of sorting charging system, oil lights ect like on a simple petrol engine but only with slight brain ache lol

My next issue is the gearbox and gear change set up (obviously not wanting reverse) because of the connecting set up !

[Stuart]

These are first generation engines & although quite good, you'd be wise to read up on them of forums like Honest John etc.
I've found the water pump to be underpowered. Thermostat does not open at correct temp so engine gets too hot damaging head gasket if coolant is to correct level. For this reason it should be filled to below so as to allow the expansion tank to do as its name suggests. I had one blow up on me! I have also removed the thermostat altogether. I recently replaced a couple of o rings inside my diesel injector pump due to a leak and have fitted the 1500 turbo tapper cover - it has a better gasket. I've owned my car for 13 years from having 95,000 miles on the clock to near 170,000 now. Only problem now is a slight oil leak on main crank seal behind belt pully & that has only blown because they got the engine oil levels wrong on the car in the first place. I only half fill it.
Pretty good engines though, if you nurse them

[Flatfour]

Is the thermostat like in the cx500 bikes ....housing like that easy job, all i do know is i've go to do the timing belt but need a alignment tool and tensioner gauge yer whatsit ???? to make sure the tension is right !?!

[Stuart]

Thermostat is pretty easy to get out. Just cut out the inner part & put outer back so it seals ok.
Belt is pretty easy & i didn't use a tool. I used my own judgement to tension. Just line up all the wheels & put the bolts in to lock. Front bolt is trickiest to do/find. It's RHS middle (as you look from front) if memory serves.

[gilbatburton]

Your injection pump will probably be a Lucas?? The only wire going to the pump is the fuel cut off(solenoid) The only other wires around the injectors are the heater plugs? I've not had any experience with the 1.4 but I've had a few 1.5(tud5) in the metro and 106. I've also changed the lucas pump for a bosch on the 106 and the only problem I had was the later bosch pump had anti tamper bolts around the solenoid and it was a bit of major surgery to get at it. Your 1.4 shouldn't have any ecu etc. If there is a little black box attached by wires chances are this is the heater plug relay box. The engine once started only needs fuel and the solenoid connected up and it will run. As said if you post some pics with your problem no doubt someone will put you right.
By the way if you are using the haynes manual it can get confusing as they use pics of the 1.4 and 1.5 mixed up and they are different engines!

[Flatfour]

Yeah the Haynes manual was a nightmare it was like the Da Vinci Code

[gilbatburton]

The only other odd wires should be the temp sensor?? Have you still got the wires connected to the heater plugs?? If so leave them connected and over on the right hand side where it disappears into the main loom or plug just cut them off so that you have a reasonable length of wire to play with. These will either need to be connected to the relay box or some sort of (momentarily on)manual switch so that you can hold them on for a few seconds before starting.
You should be able to identify the single wire (fuel cut off) coming out of the pump. This just needs power to it from your ign switch.
The other wires as I said should just be temp gauge etc. coming out of the block over the rear of the engine just above the bellhousing area?? and the alternator wires??
It's definately a tud3 alloy block etc??

[gilburton]

re the timing belt as Stuart said all you need is bit of tube or lever a couple of feet long. Wedge it behind the tensioner pulley and get someone to lever down on it. Using your forefinger and thumb you should be able to twist the belt about 45 degrees. Less too tight more too slack. Tighten tensioner pulley bolt up while keeping tension on lever.

[Flatfour]

Yes its early one ........ like i said though my biggest issue at present is the new timing belt (obviosly the engine will need one can the set up be done after i've fitted the motor to the GL frame) to get tension right ?

Second issue is the gear linkage set up for my foot gearshift ?
(disregard the words in pic)


Third issue is i hope i've made the right choice :-

gearbox pointing out the frame at the front - using output shaft to run to the bach towards the timing belt end and swingarm - fixing it to a XS1100 middle gear with a sprocket on the output - to chain to rear wheel !!

with the ratio's as follows hope a CB900 rear wheel to do the job!

Gearbox
5 speed manual
Top gear ratio
0.77
Final drive ratio
3.59

[gilburton]

Can't help with the gear lever but do the belt while the engine is out. You will need some bolts or drills to act as timing tools and lock up the cam,pump and crankshaft before removing the old belt.

[Flatfour]

Thanks ........ how does the tension thingy tool work then or is that down with the engine is hot so the belt wont snack under expansion ?!

[gilburton]

It's a bit like a torque wrench to make sure the belt doesn't jump the teeth but isn't so tight that it puts a strain on it. The tensioner is just a roller which is eccentric so that when you undo the centre pivot(13mm ??) the roller tension is released.
Put your timing tools in to the various holes before slackening off the old belt. Do not try to mark things instead of locking rods as the cams and pump WILL move!!
Once you have found one timing hole the others should be aligned as well. Line up the cam pulley by eye initially. If I remember correctly the hole is about 4/5 o'clock as you look at it. Then find the hole for locking the crank.
Left side of engine i.e. belt on left gearbox on right. I think on the 1.4 it's just to the left of the join between the crankcase/gearbox around the flat bit of casting/ ally label possibly on 1.4?? just under the head joint(it's just a hole nothing special 6mm if I remember) All the rest are 8mm.
Insert a suitable rod eg drill bit until it touches the flywheel then keeping finger pressure on it turn the crank pulley with a ratchet or ring spanner back and forth.
You will feel the drill rubbing on the flywheel. If the alignment is close you should feel the drill push in to place and the crank is then locked solid! Try it a couple of times to make sure. You may see a larger hole around 1-1 1/2" in dia but ignore this.The timing hole is in the curve of the flange casting where it meets the block casting.
Now look at the cam pulley and it should be lined up insert a long threaded bolt/rod and screw it in a bit.
Now the pump similar procedure but I'm not sure if this is threaded(possibly 2 bolts on the 1.4??) but you get the idea (it might be the other way round)
If your old belt is still reasonably good try the thumb and forefinger test on the longest free part to give you an idea of the amount of deflection it shouldn't be any more than about 45 degrees.
For the moment ignore the Haynes manual about the slotted holes in the cam/pump pulley as people get confused by these.
Remember use locking pins and no matter what you do then your engine will stay timed even with the belt off. Post again when you are ready to replace the belt and I'll give you some more info about the pulley slots.

It always worked for me!

[Flatfour]

Some pics of the engine to be ...........can't find the engine number amoungst the fur and rust ?

[gilburton]

Is the engine a guaranteed runner or do you know the history?? I only ask as it looks as if it has been lying for some time??
Anyway I think you are one of the lucky ones with a Bosch injection pump. If you wish to run on veg oil the bosch pump will tolerate it! I'm not 100% sure what the microswitch actually does but it either controls idle or it's the other way round as the cam operates above/below idle. The Lucas pump doesn't have this.
You should see a another wire disappear in to the pump. This will be the stop solenoid. Once you identify it if you put 12v + to the wire and earth the engine you should hear it click. There may be a blue?? socket with 2 wires on a bracket somewhere below or to the side of the pump? One will be the cut off solenoid. If it doesn't click either it's not working or it does indeed have an immobiliser?? I think it's a bit early to have an immobiliser so fingers crossed.

[gilburton]

Can you put a pic of the top of the engine or the whole engine from the front (injection pump side)also a pic of the injector pump where the 4 pipes are attached??
On the pic of the fuel filter, the round alloy thing and the cut off connector top left is part of the vacuum pump for the brakes and could be blocked off or removed??
The green tube type connectors are your feed/return pipes to the pump/tank.
The thermostat is just to the left of the fuel filter. Be careful with this as it's made of plastic and breaks easily if over tightened.Looking at the pic the bolts are quite shiny so I wonder if this has recently been done?? I'd be tempted to leave it for the moment??
Just one point a lot of the features seem more consistent with the 1.5??? Also the block appears to be rusty indicating cast iron??
Did you get the intake manifold/air filter with it?? A pic would be good!
I'm only going from memory so forgive me if I am slightly wrong.

[Flatfour]

will do better pics today !!

[gilburton]

The intake manifold/air filter on the 1.5 is different to the 1.4 and the end on the pump where the 4 injection pipes exit is where they put the squarish cover for the immobiliser if it's got one.
These details will allow me to id the engine
Just to add in the last pic the round thing, just above the twin fuel pipes,with the rusty cable going to your pump is the "fast idle". It works a bit like a choke and keeps the revs up until the engine is warm. It operates like a wax thermostat.

[sbrumby]

I see you come from Leicester did this engine get discovered when they dug up Richard the 3rd?

[gilburton]

This might help?
http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/for ... ?tid=21915

And here is my description of removing the immobiliser if you have one??

http://www.flickr.com/photos/40883788@N ... hotostream

Make sure you cover all the pipe openings and threads as you don't want the grinder to slip!
You don't have to do all this just grind a square hole in to the cover. You will cut in to the immobiliser but it doesn't matter. You just need access. Ignore the wires going to the immobilser and,keeping the clip on the solenoid,cut that wire from the immobiliser and connect it to your ign. switch. You can try a battery across it and it should click!

[Stuart]

Just came across these two shots of the Peugeot 1360cc non turbo engine in the infamous Boccardo. It used a modified 5 speed Guzzi Innocenti gearbox sending its power through a single plate dry PSA polyamide clutch. Apparently these gearboxes work better than any Guzzi one ever did!

[gilburton]

Have you seen this??
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-100-COM ... 23296954ef