Hi, this may be a stupid question but, how long does it take for rings to run in properly (Rug rd211 954cc twin) ?
I always thought 1000-1500 miles was the norm.
My engine seems to be getting more compression, about 5000 miles after changing the rings.
I had a large car battery (fully charged) direct to the starter motor, and it is having trouble turning the engine over. Which is odd as my little 8ha turned it over previously no problem.
It may be my imagination, but I think kick-starting has got harder than it was as well.
I had the same issue recently, where my battery wouldn't turn over the engine. Turned out there a worn cable that was causing a voltage drop. Replaced this and all was well
alexanderfoti wrote:Its not possibly carbon build-up, reducing the combustion chamber as per:
I had the same issue recently, where my battery wouldn't turn over the engine. Turned out there a worn cable that was causing a voltage drop. Replaced this and all was well
No, I don't think it's anything to do with carbon; I've only used proper diesel fuel so far.
I took the primary belt off, and all cables off the engine, no alternator or reg/rec, no bat leads etc hooked up, just 400 amp jumper leads from the 2 car batteries and 1 Harley battery, the result was the same. It turned over two or three times before giving up.
alexanderfoti wrote:Hmm possibly shorted windings in the starter motor then?
Swapped the starter from my spare engine, with the same result.
I have the original starter in bits giving it a service, nothing untoward other than needing a little more lube.
I have been revving the engine higher than usual. 3500 for quite some time and recently 3750, regular oil changes with quality oil, now using GTX diesel semi sinth.
Depends on engine size, piston rings can be 'run in' in several hundred miles, to around 1000 miles.
I was told about 300 miles for my engine.
If the engine has high compression and is difficult to start, and the starter motor/electrics has been found to be ok; then the first thought would be piston/rings trying to seize in the cylinder bore, or injector not working properly/it's timing is out, so no fuel getting to the piston crown combustion area during start up.
Apart from that, err.. no other ideas
There's nothing like the smell of burnt vegetable oil in the morning!!
1971 Royal Enfield diesel running on diesel/biofuel.
old clunker wrote:Depends on engine size, piston rings can be 'run in' in several hundred miles, to around 1000 miles.
I was told about 300 miles for my engine.
If the engine has high compression and is difficult to start, and the starter motor/electrics has been found to be ok; then the first thought would be piston/rings trying to seize in the cylinder bore, or injector not working properly/it's timing is out, so no fuel getting to the piston crown combustion area during start up.
Apart from that, err.. no other ideas
Yes that's what I thought, no where near 5000 miles.
Oh she starts no problem, it just takes more battery power to turn.
With the shut off lever in the off position (so she will not run), the small battery used to turn her a lot easier, faster and more turns. When kicking her over, I have to get her past the compression strokes, I'm sure this has got harder to do since going to Germany on her, once past the compression strokes it's as easy as it has always been.
I took my Enfield (MD191) Ruggerini 850 to Hamm 3 times & swear it was better after each trip. Pretty sure the bike engine was re-built before I got it. Each trip was just over 1 thousand miles. The cylinder liners of diesels are harder than petrol bikes right? I did have to Loctite the rocker covers recently tho!
Stuart. M1030M1, Honda NC700S, Grom!, Toyota Corolla 1.4 Turbo Diesel. Favouring MPG over MPH.
Hi Stuart,
I haven't had the chance to get in the garage today, but I'm betting that's what it is, finally it's run in.
No wonder the little 8ah battery couldn't turn it anymore (the Optimate sorted it out), the manual says 80 to 90ah.
I think I may get away with using my 18 to 19ah Harley battery, but it's so heavy, I may just use the kickstart and take the electric starter and bat off.
She ran like a dream on the motorways on the way home from Hamm, also you were right about the Diesel plus fuel, it does give it a little more pep.
My 3.2 liter Mercedes Diesel only has a 100AH battery
Mind you, on my 406 yanclone, I am using a Motobatt battery with 380Cold cranking amps. 20 AH capacity and has the ability to turn over my engine without using the de compressor.
All I have to say about diesel break-ins is they take a long time. A good friend of mine told me my VW would take 25k to break in fully. I didn't quite believe him until i noticed how powerful the engine was running at about 30k, also, my mileage went up slightly sometime in that period. It's probably quicker on the smaller engines, but still!
Battery Ah capacity is only slightly related to cold cranking amps capacity. The 9Ah battery in one of my bikes is rated at 180CCA, and struggles on very cold days. An AGM battery of the same dimensions and weight can deliver 260CCA. Try giving County Battery Services a call. They're cheap and helpful.
[quote]My engine seems to be getting more compression, about 5000 miles after changing the rings.
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This reminds me of a line in the original handbook which came with my Russian Ural, which offers the encouragement that with careful use, piston ring life may exceed 5000km...
mark_in_manchester wrote:
This reminds me of a line in the original handbook which came with my Russian Ural, which offers the encouragement that with careful use, piston ring life may exceed 5000km...
You made me doubt myself...on checking a number of manuals, I find for more recent bikes that
"The normal service life of the piston rings usually exceeds 10,000km of run"
So I was unduly pessimistic - or perhaps the 5000km-quote is from an early manual and I can't find it.
Either way, all manuals suggest pulling heads and barrels off every 7000-8000km...my experience is that bottom-end and gearbox rebuilds are also possible in this time frame!
I don't see a solution discovered here yet? I would carefully check the rest of the electrical system like wires and cables, and certainly the grounding lugs! Often a cable can look fine on the outsides, like just a bit of corrosion. But peel back the plastic outer covering and one discovers all the wire inside fully corroded green & white, beyond repair. Gound connects of course need bare metal, maybe some grease to protect. Switches wear out too...
XLerate wrote:I don't see a solution discovered here yet? I would carefully check the rest of the electrical system like wires and cables, and certainly the grounding lugs! Often a cable can look fine on the outsides, like just a bit of corrosion. But peel back the plastic outer covering and one discovers all the wire inside fully corroded green & white, beyond repair. Ground connects of course need bare metal, maybe some grease to protect. Switches wear out too...
I have checked the electrical system and there's nothing wrong with it. A few things that were not as I would like (now sorted) but nothing like a short. The battery is totally useless, the optimate did get it working, but now when I hook it up it struggles to charge it (off the bike).
So I have a decision to make, the size of the battery will determine how I start the bike, kick or electric start.
Just to update this thread; I have found a short in the starter motor.
The bolt that that takes the live wire from the battery is loose, and when it spins slightly it shorts.
This is a problem with both my Ruggerini / Lombardini starters.
I also suspect that when the bolt (contact) is turned in a position so it doesn't cause a short, it still shorts when the starter is engaged. I haven't had time to rip this apart yet.
The right hand cylinder head gasket blew. Replacing it I discovered excessive carbon build up due to failed kick starting and the engine running backwards. Engine top end now re built. So now I start the running in all over again.
Baby battery gone, and the Harley battery in, not looking too bad.
