After a long delay I've made an effort this year and the bike is nearing completion MOT test.
Can you see anything unusual about the belt/cvt cover??
I made the main part from the rear panel of an old cooker. The front "bulge" is a stainless dog/pet bowl topped with the lid from a coffee tin. The rear bulge is just a plastic plate. It doesn't do anything but it makes the cover look less bulky
Recycling at it's best? Not really I hate spending money,well, I am Scottish
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Last edited by gilburton on Wed May 02, 2012 1:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I'm nr Kettering Northants. UK.
This engine used to be widely available and was fitted to quite a few MZ's, Enfields etc.
The transmission is from a French Microcar which came up on ebay and is indeed cvt. It is very similar to the CVTECH system as sold by gemini karts in the uk hence the bulky look.
I'm not quite happy with the looks on the r/h side. It would be ok in a velocette though I'll work on that,maybe some sort of trail bike skid plate?? I'll have to protect the starter anyway as it's a bit vulnerable.
No not recently. I'm not quite sure what car it came from but it all seems to function with the diesel rev range so I presume it is from an Aixam. It cost me £90.
The engine is used and cost me £75 on ebay.
The tacho doesn't work but I presume if I took a drive off the pull starter spigot on the r/h side (which mine doesn't have) it would work. At the moments it's just filling the hole but I had intended to fit a battery gauge and possibly a clock in there.
I was considering keeping the tacho body/glass and inserting the instruments inside.
If anyones got a pull starter I'm still looking for one.
If you are looking around, I have a Dakota Digital DSL-1 floating around that requires either an alternator signal or a magnetic pick-up and can then drive (and be calibrated) to a normal petrol tach.
I managed to get a boat tach working with the cooling fins on mine and a magnetic switch, works well!, it reads a bit fast, but that's ok with me heh.
I have a volt meter + ammeter running on mine as well, with the tiny stator on the 186 i have, I only puts out about 2 amps charging current so I have to keep an eye on the electrics. (until I pull the flywheel off and put the bigger stator I have lying around on).
The tacho on the MZ is cable driven so no need for complicated electronics. I don't really think it's necessary to have a tacho just don't scream the engine and change up early. The torque will do it for you.
I recently phoned my local motorbike garage to MOT the diesel bike, I thought I would give them fair notice before I rode in on it :p Have you had any issues with registration etc?
Just a few more odd jobs to do and integrate the excellent MZ chain guards into a cover for the rear sprocket/jackshaft. Spent a ridiculous few hours yesterday on modifying(big hammer etc.) the rear brake pedal as it was fouling the footrest/exhaust.
It's always the small things that take the time.
I've also now fabricated a cover for the starter. I didn't have enough left from the cooker so I scratched my head a bit and "eureka" An old bread bin that was lying around. It made an excellent cover.
H'mm the other half of the breadbin might do for the sprocket cover!!
I had my first run on the road today. Just a quick run around the block as the bike is not yet legal.
IT WORKS
The engine feels a bit weak and the idle is a bit high. This may be due to the non standard filter fitted as the revs were higher after fitting.
I'll also have a look at the fuel delivery as the universal fuel filter is on its side and doesn't appear to have much fuel in it. I may try mounting it lower down and vertical.
Overall I'm pleased with the result and it works well enough to get it tested and legally on the road so that I can tinker before using it further.
Not sure how regulation is done on these engines. On the yanclones an idle mechanism has to be fabricated.
On mine, its done my the tension in the throttle cable, but other have implemented an idle adjustment bolt that presses against the assembly to carry out the same function.
It's not the cable/idle settings as I had it setup using the original silencer/air filter during the build. It has a throttle/idle mechanism already there. All I had to do was install a cable to the existing cable adjuster.
After fitting the air filter the idle increased so I suspect a weak mixture.If you've ever ran out of fuel(car or bike) you'll know what I mean.
I know when I was still building it it ran a bit short of fuel and the revs increased and went a bit weak then as well.
I'm a bit reluctant to turn the idle down until I try moving the fuel filter to a more vertical position.
I know a weak mixture can harm petrol engines but what about a diesel???
Any comments on air filters??
It currently has an aftermarket early harley type which is little more than a bit of foam?
Anyway I've no doubt I'll get it sorted over the next few days
Diesel always run very lean, so you wont get any damage from too little fuel, just less power.
All I can think with regards the air filter, is that the replacement is less restrictive than the old one, therefore allowing the engine to breathe a little bit better, then increase the revs.
