Oil Cooling..???

[Mahesh]

Hello guys...so wanna know, do single cylinder diesels need oil cooling..??? i have a 6ld435cc on my enfield and on long rides the engines kind of gets hot...it doesn't overheats..just gets hot and if i stop the engine then i will have to stop for a few minutes so to allow it to cool and then start it ..i never have this issue in a 325 taurus...maybe since its a small engine it doesnt create so much power and thus doesnt heats up as much..both engines are fitted with standard flywheels of their respective ratings...so will oil cooling help in cooling down the engine a bit..??? my 325 taurus actually performances better when hot but the 435cc heats up a little bit on the hotter side....so any advice is appreciated..

[albertaphil]

It it's my understanding that oil life is inversely proportional to oil temperature. So the hotter the oil runs the more often you Will need to change it. I think somewhere around 200 degrees Fahrenheit is a magic number. If you run much hotter than that you should change the oil much more frequently. Of course the key is knowing just how hot your oil is,so rigging up a temperature gauge would be the first step. I suppose that pointing an infrared thermometer at some representative place on the crankcase would give you an idea...

[Diesel Dave]

You need to check the oil temperature after a long ride, if it goes over 120 degrees C, then you do need to do something about it.

If your over fueling the it will overheat no matter what you do with the oil cooling situation.

If your black smoking on full throttle then this needs to be addressed quickly.

[Mahesh]

well the bigger 435cc has a knocking sound when idealing so i upped the idealing rpm a bit...but i guess that shouldnt be the cause of heating,beacause i dont ideal so much..and also it heats up on rides..i will look into the temps ..but anyhow if fixing a oil cooler will help in any way..then i better get a oil cooler rather than wasting time thinking about it..just in case..

[Diesel Dave]

Check your injection timing too, if it's at all retarded it will heat rapidly.

Try and go for the most advanced setting you can before detonation sets in, as parts wear in the motor the timing becomes progressively retarded.

Start by removing a single thin shim from underneath the pump and DON'T drop the tappet spacer down inside the crankcase when you remove the pump or you will be un bolting the sump as well.